In the World of Chain/Moss stitch sewing machines:
These machines have been around since 1790, patented in England.
t seems that knowledge of use and the settings are kept within a group of users and it is uncommon to find such information on the “web”. Statements are left open like “This knob sets the nipple pressure” but there is no description of what that pressure or setting should be or what to look for if it is too loose or too tight.
On Consew website their 104 models use 137X1(TR) and 137X1(SM) needles.
In sizes 1-12. Go try to find those on the internet. Call Consew and they sell by the 100 box only. I am a hobbyist. I am not doing this commercially.
A friend had ordered one only because she was told this would work when her computerized one was down for repairs. So we presume it would be already setup. Neither one of us knew anything about chainstitch machines. All the shop’s machines are computerized.
The table machine arrived and nothing was mentioned or set. We didn’t know that the machine turned opposite of other sewing machines. I later spotted this statement in a YouTube video. You would think this would be in Large letters somewhere in a manual - if you get a manual. You would also think that the person that sold her the Motor, table and machine would have flipped the switch on the motor for her. Nope, didn’t happen. Then we had people in the company telling her it wouldn’t do Moss stitch only their model 110 machine would do that. So very frustrating. A whole new vocabulary needed to be learned. Needle Bar, Thread Plate, Looper and what these things do.
We found a few listings but their sizes were 11-21???? Wait! The machine uses 1-12 sizes!!
We also finally found “Chainstitch Embroidery Sewing Machine Needles PHx1. NEEDLE SYSTEM: PHx1, 253, 137x1, SY5901. Barbed hook needles for Chainstitch Embroidery sewing machines.” We still didn’t know that all chainstitch machines like this use the same needles and their threads are the same size. This is crazy land.
I eventually found a chart - 2 weeks later that showed the conversion from Singer sizes to System 253. It is below all this text.
I also found out that the thread comes up from the bottom. What thread to use? They just say be sure to use the proper needle, nipple and plate hole for the thread you are using. Nothing in the books about what thread is commonly used. I have a sailmaking machine. They told us that it is common to use V-69 thread. No such comments like that here. What I did find out is that in ChainStitch you run things a bit on the loose side. In lock stitch you take out the fabric and look for the knot to be in the middle to know your tensions are correct. There is none of that here. It is just said that you may be dropping treads. You’re having other issues when you see torn or fluffy thread (if it isn’t chenille) I have found out since that if the shape of the sewn thread is more elongated, or your stitches are disappearing before your eyes the thread tension is probably too high. Also, check for burrs in the tensioner discs. Oh, and Chenille is not the thread it is another name for Moss Stitch! Rayon Wool is used commonly. And the tensioner has a pin to hold the disc. Where should that be clocked at? Currently looking from it’s end I am clocked at 3.
I loosened the pressure foot to put the rubber piece back in place on its bottom. I put it back in to fully seat upwards in its place. Now it won’t come near the fabric! Ok, how do I set this properly in place and at what tension? I made sure the lift was down. Let the foot rest on the needle plate and tightened it there. Seems to be working okay for now.
For the thread, hmmm. Chenille thread? What weight does that come in? What needle should I use? Nipple? Plate hole? They say to make sure the thread and needle fit through the hole. Wouldn’t you think that the thread maker would have a best or average size needle for this? Or there be a chart with the machine for what needle works good with which thread and for such desires? What is chenille thread anyway? It is fuzzy and it is used to make letter jacket patches is all I know.
One mind blow is that the height of the loop is determined by the Needle height in the holder.
I have seen manufacturer instructions to set the needle height just on top of the fabric and others say that the bottom of the hook should barely be showing. What is best when and where?
I have seen in videos of how to change the range of stitch length. It was kind of an Easter Egg. Words mentioned in the middle but no hint in the description that would be in there.
There are a bunch of lovely hints I have garnered.
With the guide handle at 6. The threading hole (outer) should be not blocked by the looper for Chainstitch. If it is blocked then the bottom gear is in Moss mode. Easy way to tell it the lower spring worm gear is in Moss or Chain mode. (Not all machines are switchable).
One hard change from Lock Stitch is not guiding the material. Let the hand gear move the needle direction.
There is a notch in the Looper that will become unthreaded sometimes when releasing fabric.
First thing to look at as it passes if your not making stitches suddenly, after you look for thread breakage.
High nipple pressure can cause thread breakage.
Generally start sewing with guide handle to 3 to start stitches.
Have guide handle to 12 to rethread in Moss mode.
Change servo motor pulley to a 45mm and use a Poly belt for that tight radius.
Tension gets complicated especially with eyes guiding the thread to the tension disc feeder.
Chenille is a whole different setup than 40Wt thread. Bigger needle - bigger nipple and plate setting than the needle i.e. 6 needle, 8 nipple and plate.
Use Wool Rayon for fluffy Moss Stitches
Use 40Wt thread for regular embroidery looking like sewing chain.
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